When dismantling a glass TV stand of any size or shape, the risk of the glass breaking must be considered and safety should be ensured by using gloves and, if possible, enlisting another person to assist.

Once everything has been removed from the stand and all wiring is out of the way, the stand should be moved into an area clear and large enough to work in.

Making sure the glass – pieces are secured by someone – either by your or a helper – holding them, begin removing the screws and place them immediately into a suitable container to prevent them getting lost.

The glass should then be stored safely in a sturdy box, preferably surrounded by layers of protective packaging such as tissue or bubble wrap. All other fittings, as well as the container holding the screw should also be packed away safely (wrapping metal parts prevents scratches).

Bookcases provide useful and convenient storage areas. Although it is possible to buy them ready made, making your own from scratch is a possible alternative.

Plywood, a more cost effective alternative to sawed lumber, can be tidied up by covering the edges with a trim. The boards should be cut to the right size using a circular saw, or the hardware store may be able to cut them to size, allowing you to simply tidy up the edges with the circular saw. The edges then need to be sanded, as they will not fit right if left rough. Mark the position of the grooves and attach the shelf cleaves to the sides and vertical cleaves to the back of the bookcase using glue or nails. Attach the sides to the shelves and add the back. Secure them with nails or screws. Plane all edges to match using a block plane.

Baskets mounted on a wall are an attractive alternative to bookshelves. Several baskets of the same size and shape can be placed in a straight line or alternatively, an interesting (but still practical!) pattern can be arranged on the wall with baskets of varying shapes, colors or sizes.

As the weight of books could collapse the baskets on their own, additional support in shape of a board or boards, attached to the wall with L – shaped brackets is required. This can be done using one long board (wide enough to support the full diameter of the baskets) for a straight line or individual boards for each basket if arranged in a pattern. If the baskets vary in size, this may require boards of different widths, as there should be neither an overhang of basket on larger ones, nor a large amount of board sticking out from underneath smaller ones.

Wall racks, used for hanging various objects from coats to guns, need to be secured well to support the weight placed upon them.

Using a stud finder, locate studs on the wall where you wish to hang your rack. Mark their positions and check if alignment with the rack’s brackets or rings is possible on both sides. If not, the heavier side of the rack needs to be the side attached to a stud.

Make the first hole in the wall at the required height and secure one side of the rack to the wall (leaving it just loose enough to enable a pivoting motion), then use a spirit level placed on the rack to determine the position for the second hole by pivoting the rack up or down until it is perfectly straight. Mark the position for the second hole, drill the hole and finish by securing both sides.

Wall mounted wooden gun racks rarely come with locking facility for the guns. A rack lock can be produced using a pencil, a drill and a cable lock.

On the side supporting the butts, mark the positions of the drill holes with the pencil. Holes should be placed centred at the bottom of both top and bottom holders for a single cable lock, or on each holder for shorter individual locks. Make the holes using a drill bit large enough to accomodate the chosen cable. Removing the drill just before it has gone right through the wood and finishing the holes from the other side will avoid splintering.

Position the guns, feed your cable lock through the hole at the top, the guns’ triggers and the bottom hole, then back to the lock. Alternatively, use shorter cable locks to lock guns individually. Misuse by children or theft are thus prevented.

Popcorn ceilings or acoustic ceilings as they are called are paint-on ceilings used in the old 1960s in America. They are considerably cheaper and can camouflage the defects (like stains, uneven geometry, etc) in the true ceilings.

As the old paints fade from your popcorn ceilings, it becomes necessary to pull out that ladder from the attic & repaint them. First & foremost, check whether your ceiling contains asbestos. To check it, you can scrape some material from a corner & send it over to a testing service. If it contains over 1% asbestos, it is mandatory to hire professionals to remove the coating.
If it doesn’t, then you are free to DIY. Cover your walls with plastic sheets to protect them. Skim & sand the ceiling to give it a smooth texture. Do not forget to use a primer. Then you can paint on 2-3 coats of latex paint followed by a sufficient drying time.